Nestled on a block in Old Irving Park with few other dining options to choose from is Wurst Behavior, a new concept from the pair behind Pierogi Kitchen, Chef Art Wnorowski and Gosia Pieniazek. At a press preview tasting on Wednesday, the wood-trimmed space with exposed brick and drop-pendant lighting was abuzz with good vibes and decadent scents, from the brats, Polish and andouille sausages on the grill, to the smoky haze of their signature Old Fashioned crafted at the bar nestled in the back corner.
The new restaurant features room for 50 inside, with a patio ("The Wurst Patio You’ve Ever Seen") slated to open in the spring; had it been warmer this evening, the crowd likely would've spilled out to its lattice-lined, picnic-bench space. But inside, the party rolled on as Chef Wnorowski celebrated the new space by cutting sausage - yes, they're going all in on the puns, and it's delightful.
Between drinks and a small buffet with samples of the menu (more on that later), I had a chance to speak with Chef about the motivation for the new space and his background in bringing his rich Polish flavors to Chicago. There's no formal culinary training here, I learned; instead, he shared how Poland doesn't have much of a restaurant culture but instead, everyone's mother makes their Sunday dinner a bit differently and, with enough time and large enough social circle, an aspiring chef can pick up quite a lot. That and childhood summers spent at his grandparents' farm butchering pigs and learning to make sausage are all to our benefit, as I can attest Chef now has quite a talent for turning pork shoulder and select spices into something quite special.
Wurst Behavior's full menu features all the classics plus enough (Nashville Hot Chicken, Mushroom Truffle Brat) to keep things interesting for the adventurous. On this preview night, we sampled Chef's Traditional Brat, the Kielbasa and an Andouille sausage alongside sauerkraut, sautéed onions and roasted brussels sprouts, all available on french bread with spicy mustard and other accoutrements. It was a small spread but packed a mighty flavorful punch, each of the sausages distinctly impressive in their own right. Personally, I found the Kielbasa a juicy and rich bite; the Andouille has a real kick to it (perfect if you're looking for that spicy edge); while the brat on its own seemed dry in comparison to the others. But all was forgiven when I sampled the same with a spoonful of Chef's bright but not overly sharp sauerkraut, bringing the brat to near perfection.
In a crowded and competitive restaurant city like Chicago, a hole-in-the-wall spot like Wurst Behavior could easily be overlooked by those seeking splashier plates or celebrities behind the chef's apron. But those looking for an offering from a creator packing quite a bit of love and family history into every encased meat (alongside quite a bit of flavor), this new spot with a fresh spin on a Chicago classic is worth heading to the north side for.
Wurst Behavior is now open at 4009 N. Elston Ave., open for lunch and dinner service Monday – Thursday from 11:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m., Friday – Saturday from 11:00 a.m. – 10:00 p.m., and Sundays from 11:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m., with brunch and late-night karaoke coming soon.
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