I was reluctant because I walk by the line every day they are open and the wait is a block long. But then I did what everyone else in those lines ahead of me did, because curiosity got the better of me and if someone says it's yummy I have to know for sure. I tossed my children into school and walked the couple blocks north to the line that awaited me outside of Del Sur’s door barely an hour after opening. On the outside, the line was maybe 11-ish people deep. The man in front of me questioned whether we had moved after I had been standing behind him for 10 minutes, and the answer was no, but I did keep moving closer to his body to make myself believe that I had. After about 35 minutes I finally made it to the inside line. It felt very special being amidst the pops of pink and soft natural tones of green from the houseplants across the shelves. The pastries I wanted to try were still in the case and I even counted the people in front of me to make sure they would still be there by the time I arrived at the register. Another 20 minutes and I had placed my order and was happily exiting the space with my box and my matcha and feeling very superior to those outside who were now in the 20-ish length range.
I have two precursors to how I view pastries. One, I recently got back from France, which means my palate is already far more accustomed to greatness, and by the way did I mention that I ate pure french pastry recently? And also, I’m almost 40 so I now understand when people complain that a dessert is too sweet and that is the saddest fact of growing up. Del Sur is a cafe and bakery but no you cannot sit inside with your beverage so one-arm that box and sip until you find a bench like the rest of us. I got the matcha for my post-line pick-me-up, an iced matcha with their house-made ube syrup and it was the cutest little green and purple delight of my day. I was instantly revived from standing silently for so long without headphones thinking my own thoughts over and over and wondering if I should indeed strike up a conversation with my children’s pediatrician who was also patiently waiting or would that be intrusive because my kids are healthily at school (for now) and it is so out of context. But, yes, the matcha was excellent and I quickly forgot my strain.
The pastry though. Which is why you go. Which is what people are waiting in line for. Is so worth it. Even post-France, I have never seen pastry puff as high as this. The layers on each and every item that I ordered were too many to count. It was crisp. It was chewy. It was seasoned. My unexpected favorite was the Calamansi Chamomile Bun, which from the outside looks like it will be a dense muffin loaf of a thing, most likely too sweet. Oh, your eyes, like mine, are deceived. It is light, and filled with a bright curd, and merely dusted with chamomile sugar. The muffin-ish bun shape is a facade that cracks open to reveal dough more delicate than any croissant you’ve torn the end off of.
The Toasted Rice Croissant was my second favorite of what I had that day. Simple, but the added nuttiness of the Minnesota-grown rice, brought out by the attention to the necessity of salt even in pastry, even in dishes and items usually thought to only be flavored with sugar, added a new depth to a well-trodden favorite.
Del Sur’s unique flavors and chic home aesthetic are the brainchild of Chef Justin Lerias. His dream of Filipino flavors with Midwest flair came to life after crafting his skill at places like Lost Larson and hosting pop-ups at Side Practice. The creativity of the chef, the kindness and unfrazzled care of each customer from the team which I’m sure is quite the task as new faces stream in hour after hour, will make Del Sur flourish beyond deliciousness alone. All of the ingredients that make Del Sur great go beyond what we equate with good enough. It is clear that Lerias has no interest in creating the everyday pastry experience, his team has just as much interest for the normal pop in and endure style of the usual breakfast or coffee pick up on any given day. What Del Sur does is create moments and flavors that are filled with what seems like simple joy but what is actually really hard work behind the scenes.
Del Sur is on my special treat-yo-self rotation. I will say that it will become a rainy day treat since I wait for no one, and I definitely don’t wait twice. I have my order ready though, the Turon Danish, because you say banana and I say oui, s’il vous plait.
Del Sur, 4639 N. Damen Ave., is open Thursday through Sunday 8am to 3pm. For information about their pastries and their team, visit delsurchicago.com.
